Embracing the Past, Designing the Future: Lanvin's Enduring Legacy
The Roaring Twenties: A Dawn of Fashion Liberation
Peter Copping, the creative force behind Lanvin, identifies the 1920s as a pivotal era for fashion. He describes this period as a time of immense liberation, laying the groundwork for contemporary style. The decade saw a widespread rejection of corsets, the emergence of sleek, Art Deco-inspired silhouettes, and a significant shift in women's societal roles, including gaining voting rights in America. Copping notes the recurring comparisons between the current decade and the Jazz Age, pointing to renewed energy at historic houses like Lanvin and Chanel, both instrumental in defining the fashion of a century ago.
Drawing Inspiration from a Rich Heritage
Both Copping and Mathieu Blazy at Chanel are deeply immersed in their brands' extensive archives. Blazy, for instance, recently presented a Chanel resort collection that reinterpreted the iconic Little Black Dress, a garment Vogue famously dubbed "fashion's Ford" in 1926. Copping, with a diverse background that includes stints at Sonia Rykiel, Louis Vuitton, Oscar de la Renta, Nina Ricci, and Balenciaga, continuously infuses Lanvin with discoveries from the brand's past, along with influences from other historical design realms like furniture and interior design.
Mentoring the Next Generation: A Designer-in-Residence's Perspective
During his visit to Savannah for the SCAD graduation show, Copping, serving as designer-in-residence for the class of 2026, shared his experiences. He discussed the timeless allure of Art Deco, his initial foray into menswear, and his collaboration with six students who crafted Lanvin-inspired designs. Copping underscored the invaluable importance of his mentorship role, guiding these burgeoning talents.
Defining Deco: Beyond the Silhouette
Copping distinguishes between 1920s silhouettes and the broader concept of Art Deco, primarily drawing his Deco references from interior design. He explains his fascination with Jeanne Lanvin's personal environment, particularly her bathroom, designed with Armand Albert Rateau, which inspired his first collection's set. A visit to the Museum of Decorative Arts, where he intimately experienced Lanvin's personal belongings, offered a profound understanding of her sophisticated life and humble origins. This insight reinforced the idea that style and creativity are intrinsic, not inherited, a sentiment he incorporated into his graphic lace designs with Deco-like zigzags and triangular patterns, emphasizing the era's unparalleled craftsmanship.
Evolution of Form: From Archival Inspiration to Modern Menswear
Over recent seasons, a distinct trend towards longer silhouettes and lower waistlines has been observed. Copping's initial collection for Lanvin already showcased strong 1920s influences. He ingeniously adapted archived embroidered dresses into T-shirts for menswear, which proved popular with women too, mirroring the era's relaxed, flowing styles. This progression harks back to pioneers like Poiret, who revolutionized fashion by eschewing corsets for simpler, linear designs. Copping also expressed his enjoyment in designing menswear, a new but comfortable endeavor for him.
Jeanne Lanvin's Expansive Vision and Enduring Business Acumen
Jeanne Lanvin's extensive travels were a significant source of inspiration, with her niece's meticulously kept travel log from a trip to Venice influencing a recent menswear collection that featured Fortuny-like velvets. Lanvin's journey to Bevilacqua to acquire fabrics, which were later faithfully recreated, speaks to her commitment to craftsmanship and historical continuity. The longevity of Lanvin as the oldest couture house is attributed to its long-standing family business structure and Jeanne's robust entrepreneurial spirit. Copping recalls Maryll Lanvin's influence during his early interest in fashion, further illustrating the brand's sustained legacy.
A Pioneer of Lifestyle: Jeanne Lanvin's Multifaceted Empire
Copping portrays Jeanne Lanvin as an exceptionally driven woman with a strong social conscience, evidenced by her establishment of staff canteens and holiday retreats for her workers. Starting as a milliner, she expanded her business to include children's wear, driven by mothers desiring similar styles to their daughters'. This organic growth likely led to menswear, sports lines, home goods, and perfumes, establishing her as one of the first true lifestyle brands. The upcoming centennial celebration of Lanvin's men's line in 2026 highlights her pioneering spirit in creating a comprehensive fashion and lifestyle empire.
Nurturing Creativity: SCAD Students' Interpretation of Lanvin
For his assignment at SCAD, Copping encouraged students to explore Lanvin's archives without specific temporal constraints. Interestingly, all students gravitated towards Jeanne Lanvin's era, seeking to understand both her designs and her persona. The project, focusing on eveningwear, allowed students to envision garments for various celebrity figures and events, ranging from Chinese celebrities to Zendaya, with Copping even considering sending a student's design for Zendaya to her stylist, Law Roach, as a bold statement to established design houses. The students' profound interest lay not just in the clothes but in the formidable woman behind the brand.
SCAD Graduates Reimagine Lanvin for the Modern Age
SCAD graduates showcased their Lanvin-inspired designs, each tailored for a specific celebrity and event. Elena Pollitzer envisioned a look for Rama Duwaji at the Whitney Biennial Gala, while Mohan Yang imagined Tang Wei on a red carpet. Nicole Amandi created an ensemble for Ayo Edebiri at the Venice Film Festival, and Samantha Covey designed for Goldie Hawn at the Oscars. Stevii Dik crafted a piece for Zendaya at the Emmy Awards, and Tanner Fleury conceptualized a look for Elle Fanning at Cannes. These projects collectively demonstrate a deep engagement with Lanvin's heritage and its potential for contemporary relevance.