Angelus, a venerable Swiss watch manufacturer established in 1891, has reawakened a piece of its illustrious past with the re-introduction of the Tinkler, a quarter repeater timepiece first released in 1958. This contemporary version, available as a limited edition in both steel and gold, is driven by a newly developed automatic quarter-repeater mechanism. It faithfully recaptures the distinctive aesthetic and acoustic charm of its predecessor, aligning with the brand's 'La Fabrique' collection, which celebrates its rich heritage through classic, inspired designs.
Known for its innovative chronographs and intricate multi-complication watches, Angelus also holds a significant place in the history of chiming timepieces. Nearly 130 years ago, the brand patented a silent strike governor, showcasing its pioneering spirit in horological advancements. The original 1958 Tinkler was revolutionary as an automatic, water-resistant quarter-repeater wristwatch. Despite its technical prowess, the quarter-repeater function was seen as somewhat outmoded by the late 1950s, leading to a limited production of merely 100 units.
The reimagined Angelus Tinkler boasts a refined 38mm x 12.03mm case, exuding an understated elegance reminiscent of the 1950s. Diverging from the pump-style pusher of the original, the new models incorporate a rectangular pusher to activate the quarter repeater. Upon activation, the watch precisely chimes the hours with a single, clear strike and signals each quarter hour with a dual strike on two gongs.
Presented in either polished steel or 18k yellow gold, the watch's case is complemented by a screw-down caseback adorned with the 'A' monogram. The subtly domed, sunburst white dial features modernist-inspired hour markers, including an eye-catching Arabic '12'. The significant quarter-repeater positions at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock are marked by distinctive 'exclamation-shaped' indicators. The time is precisely told by sharp, faceted golden hands, all protected beneath a retro-style box sapphire crystal.
Powering this sophisticated creation is the new automatic Angelus A600 movement, operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and offering a substantial 70-hour power reserve. The movement itself is a work of art, meticulously decorated with snailing, Côtes de Genève patterns, polished angles, blued and chamfered screws with mirror-polished heads, and a sunburst tungsten rotor, reflecting Angelus's dedication to both precision and aesthetic excellence.
Emphasizing its historical essence, the timepiece is paired with an exquisite alligator strap: a deep inky blue for the 18k yellow gold variant, and a warm saddle brown for the steel model. Both straps feature pin buckles that perfectly match their respective case materials. The yellow gold edition is restricted to 15 pieces, priced at CHF 56,300 (including tax), while the steel version, limited to 25 pieces, is available for CHF 37,900 (including tax). Further details can be found on the Angelus watches official website.