Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) has reached its twentieth year, transforming from a nascent regional event into a globally recognized fashion powerhouse. Under the leadership of CEO Cecilie Thorsmark and her predecessors, CPHFW has successfully carved out a unique identity as the 'fifth fashion week,' standing proudly alongside the established fashion capitals of New York, London, Milan, and Paris. This journey has not only fostered the rise of iconic Scandinavian brands but also set a new benchmark for responsibility within the industry through its groundbreaking sustainability initiatives.
The Evolution of Copenhagen Fashion Week: Two Decades of Visionary Leadership
Founded two decades ago, Copenhagen Fashion Week has grown remarkably, cultivating a distinct Scandinavian style that captivates international audiences, notably through its vibrant street style scene. From its early days, CPHFW served as a launchpad for now-renowned names like Saks Potts, Cecilie Bahnsen, and the Danish sensation Ganni. Although some of these brands have since shifted their focus to Paris, CPHFW’s influence has only expanded, solidifying its status as a major player in the global fashion calendar.
A pivotal moment in CPHFW’s history arrived in 2020 when it became the first fashion week to mandate minimum sustainability standards for all participating brands. These stringent guidelines, fully enforced from 2023, encompass strategic planning, material selection, working conditions, consumer engagement, and show production. This proactive approach has inspired other fashion councils, including those in Oslo, Berlin, and London, to adopt similar measures, underscoring CPHFW’s role as a catalyst for positive industry change. Despite these significant achievements, CEO Cecilie Thorsmark emphasizes that the journey towards a truly responsible fashion week is ongoing.
In a recent interview, Cecilie Thorsmark reflected on her journey with CPHFW, which began in 2010 as a personal assistant to founder Eva Kruse. Her deep understanding of the event’s inner workings and its inherent challenges motivated her to assume the CEO role in 2018. Upon taking the helm, Thorsmark prioritized elevating CPHFW’s financial and strategic standing, aiming to establish it as an internationally relevant platform for Nordic fashion. Securing robust partnerships and sponsorships became crucial, enabling investments in new formats and initiatives, most notably the comprehensive sustainability requirements.
These requirements, developed in collaboration with the Global Fashion Agenda, serve as admission criteria for all brands on the official schedule. They encompass 19 minimum standards that address sustainability across the entire value chain, with an external committee rigorously assessing compliance. This framework not only establishes a baseline for accountability but also provides a shared direction for the fashion network, promoting responsible purchasing practices, circularity, and the use of eco-friendly materials.
Thorsmark highlights that the responsibility of fashion week organizers today is twofold: to provide a vibrant platform that fosters creativity and business growth, and to leverage their influence to drive greater industry accountability. This includes advancing sustainability, diversity, and inclusivity through concrete structures rather than mere declarations. While balancing long-term ambitions with the short-term pressures of the fashion industry remains a significant challenge, CPHFW has garnered strong industry support for its vision. The recent updates to sustainability requirements, enacted during a period when many sectors are scaling back on environmental commitments, exemplify CPHFW's unwavering dedication to progress.
The growth of CPHFW into the "fifth fashion week" is a testament to its expanding international attendance and strategic global partnerships. Thorsmark attributes the enduring sense of community within CPHFW to its inclusive nature and the pride Danes take in sharing their city's cultural richness. Memorable moments, such as CPHFW’s showcase at the V&A Fashion in Motion in London, signify its growing global recognition.
Looking ahead, CPHFW plans to celebrate its anniversary with a special dinner for its community, bringing together designers, guests, and creatives who have shaped its history. High brand participation is anticipated for upcoming seasons, including new and returning labels, alongside the release of an archive book detailing the past two decades. For the next 20 years, Thorsmark aims to further enhance CPHFW’s relevance and significance, not just in terms of volume, but by continuing to raise the bar for sustainability, diversity, and inclusion, ensuring fashion remains a powerful force for good.
The journey of Copenhagen Fashion Week serves as an inspiring blueprint for how cultural institutions can evolve to meet contemporary challenges. Its unwavering commitment to sustainability and inclusivity demonstrates that fashion can be both aspirational and responsible. This holistic approach, integrating commercial success with ethical imperatives, fosters a dynamic environment where creativity thrives alongside a deep sense of purpose. As other fashion weeks look to CPHFW's model, the potential for widespread positive change within the global fashion industry becomes increasingly tangible. It's a reminder that true leadership involves not just showcasing innovation, but actively shaping a better future for all.