In a vibrant fusion of culture and cuisine, a recent banquet in Manhattan celebrated the intricate culinary heritage of Huế, Vietnam's former imperial capital. This special event, the eighth in the acclaimed Ăn Cỗ series, transported diners to a world where food is art, meticulously prepared and beautifully presented. The atmosphere, enriched with traditional Vietnamese music and soft lantern glows, provided an immersive experience that highlighted the passion and dedication of its creators, Thu Pham Buser and Taylor Buser.
Manhattan Hosts a Royal Vietnamese Feast: The Ăn Cỗ Series' Homage to Huế
In a dimly lit dining room within the WSA Building in downtown Manhattan, an extraordinary culinary journey unfolded. As dessert arrived, servers gracefully navigated through the tables, each carrying softly illuminated lantern boxes, their contents sparkling jewel-toned treats. Conversations hushed as the ethereal strains of traditional Vietnamese court music filled the air, creating a truly enchanting ambiance.
This immersive experience was the brainchild of Thu Pham Buser, a talented chef and food stylist, and her husband, Taylor Buser. Their Ăn Cỗ series, meaning “attending a feast,” has garnered a loyal following in New York City by meticulously showcasing regional Vietnamese cuisines rarely found on American menus. While a vibrant arts festival was concurrently unfolding in Huế, Vietnam, Thu and Taylor were orchestrating their own tribute to the imperial city's rich and painstaking food traditions — their most ambitious endeavor yet.
Thu passionately explains that “Huế is the culinary innovation capital of Vietnam,” a place where “the central region has been the source of so many of our national dishes.” For centuries, skilled cooks, artisans, and craftspeople converged in the imperial city, where the royal court prized elaborate techniques and exquisite presentation. This dedication to culinary excellence was evident throughout the evening.
Taylor, elegantly dressed in a chestnut-colored traditional áo dài, eloquently introduced each course, while glimpses of Thu orchestrating her team in the open kitchen, adorned in vibrant blue and red trousers, hinted at the meticulous preparation behind the scenes. The dinner commenced with a trio of Huế’s signature bánh dumplings, reminiscent of those one might encounter “walking through a little Huế market.” These included translucent, shrimp-filled bánh bột lọc; soft, purple ube bánh ít trần brimming with mung bean; and delicate banana leaf-wrapped bánh nậm, all served with crispy fried shallots, charred scallion oil, and a zesty chili nước mắm sauce.
The creation of these seemingly delicate dumplings was a monumental task. As Thu noted, most traditional recipes are designed for family kitchens, not for banquets serving 300 diners over five nights. This required weeks of diligent testing to perfect doughs that, as she humorously admitted, “do not cooperate easily.” Her team handcrafted approximately 2,500 dumplings, a process she likened to her mother’s childhood restaurant, establishing a “dumpling factory” where each staff member specialized in a specific step: slicing, flattening, filling, and sealing the dough. This assembly-line rhythm mirrored the collaborative spirit she recalled from watching her mother and aunts cook together.
The feast continued with a bánh ép tapioca crepe, a delightful street snack featuring chewy tapioca layered with lemongrass grilled beef, fresh papaya, and pungent pineapple mắm nêm sauce. This was followed by a vibrant salad of fermented shrimp, crispy pork belly, tangy green mango, and aromatic galangal-limeleaf crackers. As cocktails flowed and guests exchanged their favorite culinary discoveries, the room buzzed with lively conversation. One enthusiastic diner shared how the Ăn Cỗ series had inspired him and his wife to plan their own trip to Vietnam. Taylor also highlighted a corner where friends, fresh from a wedding in Vietnam, were reliving their celebrations through the authentic flavors of Ăn Cỗ.
The hearty bánh canh bột xắt arrived next, featuring hand-cut rice noodles bathed in a rich blue crab broth, complemented by crab cake, delicate quail eggs, fragrant Vietnamese coriander, and zesty green peppercorn. Hand wipes and plastic gloves were thoughtfully provided, underscoring the immersive and interactive nature of the dish. Like almost every item on the menu, the noodles were prepared entirely from scratch, with Thu’s team meticulously hand-cutting approximately 65 kilos of noodles — a testament to their “labor of love” in pursuit of authenticity.
The meticulous craftsmanship extended beyond the culinary creations. The stunning crystal-shaped paper lanterns, which cast a warm amber glow over each table, were carefully sourced from Huế and shipped to New York. A large screen displayed captivating footage from Thu and Taylor’s recent research trip to Vietnam, where they learned from local artisans and gathered specialty ingredients. The enchanting lantern dessert, served at the end of the night, was directly inspired by their trip. The couple recalled the soulful experience of lighting lanterns on an evening boat ride along Huế’s Perfume River, watching them drift gently away in the “quiet city.” This inspired Taylor to spend months prototyping illuminated lantern boxes, while Thu perfected the trio of dessert soups they would hold: sweet corn with salted coconut cream, purple yam with tapioca pearls, and a surprising candied pork crackling wrapped in pandan-flavored tapioca dough. The Busers thoughtfully curated the entire menu as “a day in Huế,” culminating where many evenings in the city do — amidst the colorful vendors lining the river.
As the evening drew to a close, a classic Vietnamese ballad began to play, growing louder and inviting diners across multiple tables to join in spontaneous karaoke. It was a joyous gathering, perfectly embodying the spirit of the Ăn Cỗ series. Taylor, who is leaving his full-time job to dedicate himself entirely to Ăn Cỗ, encapsulates their driving force: “If there’s one thing in life, you’ve got to do your own vision, your own passion.”
This extraordinary event stands as a powerful reminder of the deep connections between food, culture, and personal passion. Thu and Taylor Buser's Ăn Cỗ series not only offers a taste of Vietnam's imperial past but also inspires a profound appreciation for culinary artistry and cultural exchange. Their dedication to authenticity and their willingness to share their passion create an unforgettable experience that resonates deeply with all who attend.
