Louis Vuitton revitalizes its horological legacy by reintroducing the Monterey, a classic time-only watch that draws inspiration from the brand's inaugural wristwatch launched in the late 1980s. Following the successful limited edition yellow gold variant last year, the fashion house now incorporates two ceramic iterations into its permanent collection. These new models seamlessly merge historical design elements with contemporary watchmaking expertise and material innovation from La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
The original LV I and LV II watches, conceived in collaboration with Italian architect and designer Gae Aulenti in 1988, were Louis Vuitton's first foray into wristwatches. Characterized by their unique rounded, pebble-like cases, graphical dials adorned with Arabic numerals, precise railway minute and hour tracks, skeletonized syringe hands, and a distinctive crown positioned at 12 o'clock, these timepieces quickly garnered a unique identity. Watch enthusiasts later coined the term "Monterey," a nod to the American pronunciation of the French word "montre," meaning wristwatch.
The two new ceramic versions offer distinct aesthetics that highlight the vintage design. The green model showcases a polished green ceramic case complemented by a matching lacquered dial, striking yellow hour and minute hands, and crisp white railway-style tracks. In contrast, the black version features a glossy black ceramic case paired with a matte white lacquer dial, vibrant red hour and minute hands, and subtle red accents. Both models include central seconds. The dials, like the cases, undergo an intricate multi-step manufacturing process, involving multiple layers of lacquer for depth and richness, finished with a matte varnish for a refined, understated appearance. Colored markings and signatures are applied using acrylic stamping, with each layer individually fired to ensure exceptional definition and longevity. While retaining the original 37mm diameter, the new models boast an 11mm thickness, an increase of two millimeters from the historical versions, to accommodate the modern mechanical movement, replacing the original quartz caliber.
Both Monterey models house the automatic LFT MA01.02 caliber, a significant upgrade from the original's quartz movement. This in-house caliber, composed of 174 components, offers a 45-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Its 750/1000 rose-gold rotor is distinguished by V-shaped notches, a polished perimeter, and an engraved LV Monogram. Even though it remains hidden beneath the solid steel caseback, the movement receives meticulous decorative finishing, including circular graining on the mainplate, sandblasted bridges, and micro-sandblasted edges.
The ceramic Monterey timepieces are complemented by calf leather straps that perfectly match the case colors, with the green variant featuring tone-on-tone hand-stitching. Eschewing traditional lugs, the innovative design incorporates a suspended case back, which allows for the integration of the straps and maintains the watch's unique, floating aesthetic. The new Monterey models are priced at $22,900, offering a blend of heritage, innovation, and timeless style.
